SALLY PASLEY VARGAS FOR THE BOSTON GLOBE

Inspired by the flavors of Cambodia, a stew that comes together at home

Boston Globe | 31 January 2017

We’re about halfway through winter, and now is a good time to reinvigorate menus of tried-and-true dishes with one from around the world. Cambodian food is similar to Thai cuisine, but it is milder and, some say, more complex and subtle in its flavors.

The basis of this dish is a slightly chunky paste, kreung, traditionally made from pounding lemongrass (the cornerstone ingredient) in a mortar with other ingredients such as fresh ginger, fresh turmeric, galangal (a rhizome similar to ginger, but with a lot more heat), and lime leaves. Shallots, garlic, and red chiles are also often added, depending on the cook’s preference. Happily, the paste can be made in a blender, as the mortar method is very demanding.

These ingredients are all accessible, thanks to the area’s wealth of international markets, but a little sleuthing may be necessary. To simplify the shopping, this recipe leaves out the lime leaves; includes golf ball-size green Thai globe eggplants instead of the scarcer pea-size eggplants one might use in Cambodia; and substitutes fish sauce for the Cambodian staple prahok (fermented fish paste), as well as brown sugar for palm sugar.

With rich coconut overtones supported by sprightly sweet and spicy flavors, this stew goes a long way toward driving off the winter doldrums. SALLY PASLEY VARGAS

Cambodian-style coconut chicken stew

Serves 6

KREUNG (LEMONGRASS PASTE)

3	stems lemongrass, outer layer removed, thinly sliced
1	piece (2 inches) galangal, peeled and thinly sliced
1	piece (3 inches) fresh turmeric, peeled and thinly sliced
1	piece (3 inches) fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
1	shallot, thinly sliced
4	cloves garlic, thinly sliced

1. In a blender, combine the lemongrass, galangal, turmeric, ginger, shallot, and garlic.

2. Process into a slightly chunky paste, scraping down the sides of the blender as necessary.

STEW

1	can (14 ounces) coconut milk
3	cups chicken stock
2	sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces
1	tablespoon fish sauce
1	tablespoon brown sugar
7-8	(about 8 ounces) Thai green globe eggplants, cut into quarters
8	ounces haricots verts (slender green beans), trimmed and cut in half
1½	pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 2-inch pieces
2	plum tomatoes, cut into 1-inch pieces
1	large handful Thai basil leaves
	Salt, to taste
	Cooked rice, for serving
	Lime wedges, for serving

1. Place a soup pot over medium-high heat. Pour the coconut cream (the thick part at the top of the can) into the pot and bring to a simmer. Add the kreung and cook, stirring, for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the mixture is thick. Add the remaining coconut milk from the can and the stock and bring to a simmer.

2. Stir in the sweet potatoes, fish sauce, and brown sugar. Simmer for 8 minutes. Add the eggplant, green beans, and chicken. Return to a simmer and cook, partially covered, for 10 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through and the vegetables are tender.

3. Stir in the tomatoes and Thai basil leaves. Taste and add salt, if you like. Ladle into bowls and serve with rice and lime wedges. Sally Pasley Vargas

Sally Pasley Vargas can be reached at sally.p.vargas@gmail.com.