The foodie traveller in ... southern Cambodia

Cambodia’s Kampot pepper is among the world’s best but it was nearly lost forever under the Khmer Rouge regime. Luckily a few farmers kept their cultivation skills alive and today there is demand from across the world

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Crab fried with green peppercorns. Photograph: Austin Bush/Getty Images/Lonely Planet Image

The Guardian | 28 June 2015

Some experts say it tastes of lime blossom, others detect jasmine, mint or eucalyptus; they all agree, though, that pepper from Kampot, south-east Cambodia, is one of the world’s best. But it was nearly lost for ever: in the 1970s, the Khmer Rouge ordered that Cambodia’s pepper vines be grubbed up and replaced with rice paddies.

However, some farmers in the Kampot province kept alive the skills and traditions of pepper cultivation and in the 1990s started producing small amounts in the rainy, quartz-rich hillsides that run down to the Gulf of Thailand.

It was well received, and this year the world price of Kampot pepper rose to an all-time high – with farmers saying they’re still only producing about 30% of demand. The best are cultivated using organic methods, with crab shells as fertiliser to nurture the climbing stems, and fallen branches as supports.

Photograph: Peter Ptschelinzew/Getty Images/Lonely Planet Image

Kampot pepper goes well with fish and shellfish, and is available by mail order in black, white or pink, but in Cambodia you can eat fresh green peppercorns still on their edible stalks: they’re served all over the country but are at their best in their home province. The seaside town of Kep, near the Vietnamese border, is the crab capital of south-east Asia, and restaurants in its seafront crab market – a collection of stilted shacks – sell fried, freshly caught crab with Kampot pepper. That’s a world-class treat for just £2-3.

Or to get even more involved, there’s the nearby Vine Retreat (doubles from $25), an organic pepper farm with accommodation, yoga and saltwater swimming pool.